“Let’s take a picture! Nobody would believe us otherwise…. How could someone be so lucky in Scotland?”
I was guessing how many any other people all around the world, were lying under the same sun at this same moment… quite common in august, of course, but how many of these were in the “well known rainy” Orkney Islands with the forecast expecting good weather for at least next 4 days…? Waoow.
Best choice having booked our Northlink Ferry round trip (https://www.northlinkferries.co.uk/), expecting 5 full days discovering these amazing islands.
We are mostly in the middle of our Scotland journey started from Geneva (Switzerland) one week before. Driving through France and England, we reached Scottish Border few days ago.
Stopping 2 days in Edinburgh for a friend visit while our mind, since the beginning, was focused on this famous Puffin spot in Westray island.
Following the north east coastal road there are many stops to do, very well described on the official website of Visitscotland ( https://www.visitscotland.com/ ). We personally liked the Dunnottar Castle, or what still remains, for best scenographic place on the top of the cliff joint to cloudy weather and rough sea. This mix is exactly what you are expecting from a Scottish Castle.
There is a nice walk along the cliffs which gives you nice spots for some good shot!
Getting back to our main target …….. the Puffin! Funny and most popular birds living in large colonies building their protected nest in the cliffs. There are few spots in Scotland but the best one is on Westray that is of the further north island of Orkney’s archipelago. First step is to find a Ferry from mainland, we have chosen Northlink Ferry round trip (https://www.northlinkferries.co.uk/), expecting 5 full days discovering this amazing islands. We decided to take the way Scrabster-Stromness the earliest in the morning around 8:30 am to Orkney and on the way back the one at 6:30 am. The sailing time is around 90 min, the medium-size Ferry offers you all comfort you need including a buffet breakfast, a self-service lunch or a dinner. We spent most of the time outside, taking photos on cliffs and breathing saltness blown by the strong wind.
Stromness from the sea looks like peaceful village worthy 2 hours walk around. If you are hungry, the Ferry Inn ( https://www.ferryinn.com/ ) is what you would need, not too many meals to choose but looking at what people were having around us I would have ordered anything.
Our base for the next 3 days was the Orkney Caravan Park at the Pickaquoy Centre ( https://orkneycaravanpark.co.uk/ ) situated 10 min walk from Kirkwall city center and the harbor. We booked it few days before. Really clean and well organized. There are different size pitch for tent or caravan and motorhome with or without electricity. No common toilet or shower each one is in a single room.
There is a common warm area with a heater where wi-fi connection works quite well, and you can relax on comfortable couches with small tables where you either eat or just charge your mobile devices thanks to many plug in. If you need you can find a washing machine and a dryer, also sinks to wash your own dishes.
Because the Ferry to Westray is small and they give priority to food trucks or any other essentials, is highly recommended to book 2-3 days in advance your ferry round trip to Westray. Main ferry office where buy your tickets is in Kirkwall’s harbor ( http://www.orkneyferries.co.uk/index.php ). We booked our tickets for the first available date.
Due to our experience, Main island worth at least 3 days visit. We would advise to spent each day in a different area split-up as follow :
West coast
Starting from Yesnaby Cliffs Coastal walk
One of the best freedom feeling is walking on a cliff along the coast hearing waves crashing into the cliffs, seagulls and other birds “screaming”, smelling the sea, and I bet anybody would try to lean over the cliff and look down feeling that shivering sensation. We enjoy the sun with that satisfied smile that make you feel like you are in the best place in the world in the right moment! And you walk…… you walk until the end of the cliffs which allows you to get closer to the water, walking on wet rocks, tanks to low tide, feeling the strong seaweed smell and photo shooting reflections on water imprisoned between the rocks.
Not too far there is the most famous Neolithic village of Skara Brae. Impossible to miss the location because most of the guided tour buses and tourist cars are there.
It deserves around 2 hours for Neolithic village tour, museum, and the visit of Skaill House ( https://skaillhouse.co.uk/ ) . We would suggest to buy the ticket with audioguide which is really useful and interesting for the village and description of Skaill House rooms.
Because we were already longing for “cliffs freedom” we headed to another small parking along the road from where another paths starts along the Cliffs destination to Kitchener Memorial ( http://hmshampshire.org/ ) . It is basically a tower standing above a very high cliff, a memorial for the Royal Navy’s ship HMS HAMPSHIRE sunk near the coast.
The Secretary of State for War, Lord Kitchener was onboard during First World War. Here where its name comes from.
Our daily target, like it should be any end of a sunny day near the sea, was sunset photography. We came back to our base camping, took shower, had our Italian pasta and…… the sky got covered…… Damn! Anyway our mission was not failed yet, so we reached the top of a hill driving on a dirty road close to Kirkwall and placed our tripods!
There was the sea, the clouds, dark shadows….. anything you need for a good sunset except for small detail called Sun. Yes….we missed it because was a bit too late. Just a bit!
Doesn’t matter if you failed the first time, the second attempt will be glorious… so next day…..
Well… not like as I hoped but not too bad. So we parked our car on the top of the cliff and we again placed our camera near the car, because small raining was coming so.. just in case… Yesnaby Cliffs, I would say is one of the best spot where to watch the sunset, because is easy to reach and there is a large parking ( the same from where the cliffs walking starts ). A brave couple tried to set up their tent there, but was so windy that in the end they gave up. If you have a van or a camper or something where you can sleep inside, definitely that is an amazing place where to spend the night.
North-west coast
There are many neolithical sites to visit like :
- Broch of Gurness ( https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/broch-of-gurness/ )
- The Ring of Brodgar (https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/ring-of-brodgar-stone-circle-and-henge/ )
Beside the ring, there is a nice and easy walk along the small lake which thanks to the sun gave us good ideas for our cameras…
- Brough of Birsay ( https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/places/brough-of-birsay/ )
Is located in a small island with a lighthouse. Only reachable during low tide…. don’t miss the chance to go back or the sea will rise and close the road…
From the island there is an incredible view of the coast. Try to believe!
This day is warm, temperature is so good.
Even car cockpit was surprised….around 23°. Really could not believe that!
South-east coast
Orkady islands played a fundamental role during Second World War to stop the Nazi invasion. Sir. Winston Churchill had the great idea to build strong barriers, connecting to each other the smaller islands on south of Orkney mainland, as naval defenses to Scapa Flow base. Nazi Submarines have been stopped by barriers. Many wrecks can be photographed during the way.
Plan to stop and visit the Italian Chapel for 2 reasons. First linked to uniqueness and historic role of the Chapel during Second World War.
Second because 50 m before the Chapel there is the J. Gow distillery ( https://jgowrum.com/ ) which gives the Orkney the primacy of being the smallest rum producing islands in the world. Once tasted the rum, you won’t be disappointed and you will leave the shop with your bottle to enjoy it at home.
Here again the “cliffs freedom” is knocking on the door… we must yield in temptation… no way! So the Tomb of the Eagle ( http://www.tomboftheeagles.co.uk/ ) was the right place.
The small visitor center is composed by a shop and consisting of 2 rooms museum with a really kind guide who explained with huge passion the historical finds. The tomb is around 1km faraway from visitor center which allows us to spent part of our afternoon walking again on cliffs kissed by an amazing sun. The way to get into the tomb is unusual but funny, and yes I’ll leave you with the curiosity…..
Next morning our ferry to Westray was leaving the harbor. Level of excitement was touching the sky!
Our cameras while burning our hands were ready! First 128gb SD card was already full. Don’t panic, our SD stock is enough.
We saw the sign Puffin, parked our car, took out zoom lens… Our day had come…. Main purpose of our travel! And we walked, we walked forward and backward many times trying to catch them, but……. Nothing! Not even one, not even the shadow…… we verified that we were in the right place and I’m sure on the path there are still traces of our shoes from the times we did it. We just gave up few hours later. Easy to imagine our disappointed feeling that moment but another amazing place was waiting for us.
The Noup Cliffs natural reserve is located on the further North-West point of Westray. There is a lighthouse at the end of the dirty road. Take care that road could be a bit slippery ( no problem with our 4×4 ) and at some point you have to cross a small bridge less than 2.5 meters wide. If your vehicle is wider you can park it before and proceed walking, lighthouse is 800m far, so easy walk.
Next picture will give an idea how amazing is this place.
Our campsite was in Pierowall, the “biggest” village of the island, so quite so nice. The owners of the camping have a farm ( https://www.chalmersquoywestray.co.uk/ ), very kind people. Same people that told us the reason why Puffins were not there… like every year in middle-end of august they move over the ocean to escape the freezing winters, the problem was that year they moved one week before than usual so we missed them for like 2 days…. 2 days too late!
Anyway the camping pitch has electricity, there is a common heated room with anything you need to cook, eat, wash your dishes and relax after long exciting day. Bathroom very clean with so hot showers. They have also some comfortable bedrooms in case needed.
We got the camping just in time for sunset. Best moment to grab our cameras again….
Before going back to Kirkwall next morning our cliffs addiction brought us to Bis Geos Cliff coastal walking. A bit cloudy and windy but the beauty of the cliffs with their arcades dug from the sea deserved this scenographic walk.
Before leaving the island we noticed with big surprise that our fame anticipate us like shown in this picture send by our best fans.
Because Orkney knew we were missing the sun and our sunset hunting was still on, Islands showed us a beautiful sunset from the Ferry this time.
The next early morning, before taking the other Ferry to go back to Scotland mainland, we had best peaceful sunrise with perfect water reflection.
Orkney knows what to gift to you!
Our journey around Scotland wasn’t finished yet. On the way back to south of mainland we saw many other astonishing places like Highland region and the Isle of Skye, however,………..
……the privilege we had being warmly welcomed by Orkney was something else! So wild islands, so pure, so mentally relaxing and full of history since 3000 a.C.
Mission is not accomplished 100% because we trust in the glorious second attempt and for sure next time Puffin will wait for us and will pose for our cameras.
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